sublime-scotland

November 4, 2022

The Island of Raasay

Dun Caan 5
Dun Caan

Journey to Raasay

We have been travelling around our beautiful Scotland all our life. Since 2015, when Sublime Scotland was created, we have journeyed many, many times to the famous Isle of Skye. However, there was one place we could see every time we visited Skye, which was still on our bucket list! 2022 had to be the year to explore the elusive island of Raasay.

Ferry Sconser - Raasay
Ferry Sconser to Raasay

The ferry takes a mere 25 minutes and there is no need to book. Just turn up and go! This was our second ferry of the day as we had travelled across from Mallaig to Armadale in the morning. By early afternoon we were leaving the east coastline of the Isle of Skye behind, as we travelled across the Sound of Raasay and to a new destination.

Island life

Raasay is very close to Skye geographically but light years away in another way. The pace of life feels slower. With only 160 people living on the island, the islanders have their own community shop with a better choice of fresh vegetables than many mainland supermarkets! The roads are very small and narrow so care is needed if you meet anything coming the other way. New life was breathed into the island when the community bought Raasay House in 2007. The wonderful old building has now been upgraded to provide accommodation, restaurant and bar as well as a wide variety of outdoor activities.

Cuillin Views
Ferry leaving and Cuillin Views from Raasay House

Raasay Whisky

One third of the population of Raasay are employed by the new distillery which was opened in 2015. Many young people came to live on the island recently thanks to the new job opportunities. This brings a real vibrancy to the island which can sometimes be missing in other small Scottish islands. We enjoyed a tour of the distillery and especially enjoyed the tasting session. All through the summer, as tour guides, we watch our guests enjoy their tastings - now it was our turn!

Susan with Whisky Still
Susan with Still

Heading for the summit

One of the most distinctive parts of the island of Raasay is the flat summit of Dun Caan. For many years it had been our ambition to reach the top and knowing it was a relatively easy half day hike, we knew it was ideal for an October trek. It had been a very wet month so the longer route was deemed to be far too boggy this time. After a fairly twisty drive and steep ascent we reached the small parking area at the start of the hike.

The summit disappeared for most of the walk and then, as we took another turn on the trail, it suddenly loomed high above us. We firstly passed a lochan (small loch) and then descended steeply to Loch na Meilich before the final pull up the rocky summit to Dun Caan at 444m (1457ft).

The views all around were extraordinary! Over to Applecross on the Scottish mainland, and even more surprising were the views back to the Island of Skye. They were astounding. The Cuillin mountains never look this good from Skye! As we sat and enjoyed a picnic a majestic Sea Eagle flew over expectedly.

Calum's Road

One of the main reasons for visitng this special island was to see Calum's Road in the north of the island. Calum lived in Raasay with his family in the 1970's and to make sure his daughter could travel to school and come home every night, he needed a road built. However, due to the very small number of people living in the village it was not considered worth the expense of building the road.

Over a number of years, single handedly, Calum built the road. It was too late to help his own daughter, but as a way of keeping the island alive it was crucial. Eventually the authorities did agree to build the road and were amazed at what a good job he had done himself. An inspiring story of grit, determination and perseverance.

Raasay of old

There is much to learn about this island, too much in a short visit. Raasay has a heritage of ironstone mining and it is possible to follow the old railway which rose from the old pier at East Suisnish over the hills to the mine. The mines were worked with prisoners of war during the First World War and there are many stories of the islanders sharing their meagre rations with the hard working prisoners. The mines closed in 1920 and were demolished 20 years later.

Scattered across the islands are remnants of old houses which reminded us that this island also suffered during the Highland Clearances when the land owner wanted to replace the crofters with sheep.

After a short visit, and the weather closing in, we knew we had to leave, but we also knew we would be back! Farewell to Raasay - until the next time.

Raasay Gin
Raasay Gin
Susan Dun Cann 2 1
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